Food Porn: The Ruskie Twist

Another Satisfied Customer

This menu has been dreamed of for over a year.

Each course was brought forth in ecstasy, made from love for love. So much love went into the production. Each component was chosen for it's aphrodisiacal affects. There is no wonder the evening should devolve to debauchery as each course of the meal was spread to consume.

Since my lover is Russian, I wanted to use the influences of his Mother-Land. But, having been born in mid-March, he landed in the cross-hairs of late winter and early spring produce—it's actually a challenging time for menu production since apples, root veg, and citrus are typically on their way out, but peas, herbs and onions haven't quite come in yet. Typically. This year was a little different, I noticed (in fact, the past couple of years have been strange for produce production. With the variations in weather, some items have come in months early, and some haven't produced at all. Global Warming—what are ya gonna do?). Needless to say, beets and citrus were running themes throughout the courses, and surf n' turf reigned supreme with the protein.

Course 1: A Birthday Toast ~ Nazdarovya!

Image: Jenevie Willes

We started by toasting to the Birthday Boy with Point Reyes oysters—chosen in part for the impending doom about to strike that area's industry—and ice old vodka. The Oysters were topped with a granita of Thai basil infused yuzu juice, to compliment the fresh flavors of the sea. (Yes, that is an ice block filled with basil, peppercorns, and handmade hollows you see the oysters perched on.)

Course 2: A Mother and Child Reunion

Image: Seth Berman

This handsome coupling was inspired by the gastronomical adventures had over Thanksgiving when we ventured to Ohio to spend time with the potential in-laws.

As Mother, the first of the two bites (really, though, which comes first, the salmon or the egg?) was house smoked salmon from The Royal Market on Geary, atop a buckwheat blini, finished with a dollop of sheep's milk yogurt from Garden Variety Cheese. For the blini recipe I used Ina Garten's very easy instructions—with a tip from a babushka at the market—let the mix sit for about 5 hours before ladling out—it was a good tip! Also, for the yogurt (chosen since The Man doesn't fare well with Cow leche) I strained it for about 8 hours to create a thicker consistency.

Next on the plate, representing The Child, was the cucumber cup:

Image: Jenevie Willes

The bottom of the cup was created with a slice of Kosher Challah and a slab of Russian butter—thick, sweet, and cheesy. (If you haven't tried European butters, I implore you to bite the bullet, spend the six dollars on a half pound, and make some toast with this decadent treat—truly, not all butter is created equal!) Next, I shaved off slices of Armenian cucumber and tied them with strands of chive. Then, just before serving, I filled those chalices with glimmering garnets of salty salmon roe.

My good friend and San Francisco Sommelier, Amy, sent me her pairing selections for the dinner. I was shopping at Bi-Rite on Divis and had to make do with the choices wine dude, Adam Melendrez, made based on her recommendations. By the way, when I first talked to this guy about wine (it was not for this dinner), I thought, "There is no way this guy knows what he's talking about"—he's young and super approachable, totally without pretense. I took his advice then and was impressed. I opted for his recommendations again for this dinner, and was again pleasantly surprised by his palate and level of expertise.

This is what we came up with for the Champagne to companion our first two courses.

Amy's suggestion was Bereche et Fils Brut Champagne

Course 3: Salad of Seduction

Image: Alex Shoykhet

When I started creating this salad, I had just discovered lovage, and it's apparent aphrodisiacal affects. Unfortunately, this green, though known and available in the bustling metropolis of Sacramento, is not so well known in the Podunk town of San Francisco. So, instead I switched to a combination of water cress and mache. I wanted greens that would stand up to the hearty spiciness of the pickled beets and capers, yet pair well with the delicate flavors of local honey and Meyer lemon oil in the dressing.

I started with both Chioga and golden beets.

The Chiogas have a beautiful, mild white flesh striated with red throughout.

Then, I used a pickling recipe from Emeril Lagasse, and modified the spices to make it my own.

After pouring the hot liquid over the sliced beets and letting them steep for about three days, the results were soft pinks and yellows with a zesty kick just right for this Easter season.

Course 4: Le Entree!

Image: Alex Shoykeht

At this point we were starting to get a little inebriated, and we have the pictures to prove it. I sat down, the music came on, and we all tucked in.

Did I also mention Bi-rite became my best friend for this dinner? It all started with this fine cut of meat—five pounds of NY roast from Estancia Beef sold to me for a killer deal! I poked it with holes, then filled it with garlic cloves coated in Cara Cara orange zest. The next day I rolled that mother in a combination of sea salt and herbs de Provence I picked up from Spice Ace in Lower Pac Heights and let her soak it up over night. This beast was served along side a trio of roasted root vegetables (red beets [of course!], sweet potatoes, and creamy white potatoes) laid out atop a slather of Shasta Gold mandarin aioli.                                                      

Amy had suggested we try out a, "Spanish Red or Northern Rhone. 

Riojas 2001-6 (not 02 or 03) 

Northern Rhone = Crozes or St. Joseph, unless you can afford Cote Rotie 03-08 (good producers like Chave, his second label as well; Clusel-Roche Cote Rotie, Combier Crozes, Bernard Faurie...)"

Adam, the wine guy, pointed these two bottles out, and I couldn't decide. So I got both. 

~~~~~~~~~

Now, momma needed a little lube earlier in the day to get the juices of creation flowing for this event. This is what I had been sipping on from about noon. 100% Cabernet Franc. Brutishly dry. 11% alcohol. Fabulously priced.

So at this point in the evening, a break for some herbal refreshments, and a breath of fresh air,  was in order for some of us to re-stimulate our palates. And, I think everyone needed a little time to digest some of what was in their tummies before we could even think about shoving more in...

Course 5: The Grand Finale!

Image: Seth Berman

Angel food cake with citrus curd of Meyer lemons and Cara Cara oranges, topped with fresh raspberries 

Image: Jenevie Willes

  

garnished with rose water Chantilly cream, rose petals,

Image: Jenevie Willes

and candied orange peel.

For this selection Amy said she wasn't too hip to the dessert wines and suggested I try a sparkling Reisling. Well, we ended up going for a moscato d'asti, and at 5% alcohol, it was the perfect finish for this evening of decadent debauchery.

Hedonists

I can remember at one point, just before everyone went home to their respective bedrooms, standing back watching the guests. The women were writhing to erotic tunes, performing impromptu lap dances for the men, others were licking whipped cream straight from the piping bag, or eating cake out of each other's hands. All were swaying to the rhythm of seduction, and I was thinking, "Now this is alchemy!" I felt like the Maenad from True Blood, seducing people out of their minds with sustenance and spirit. It was so beautiful to be able to provide this as my gift to the man who has so often brought about these same responses in me.

Thank you Lover, for inspiring, and sharing, this love born of Love <3